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Egypt’s
Multi-Cultural and Multi-Religious Cuisine
Springtime in Egypt is filled with all of the sensory delights that
dreams are made of. The air is filled with freshness and picture perfect
weather becomes the norm. Fresh new vegetables and crops start to emerge
from the banks of the Nile as the Mother of the World gives birth to
a new season. This year, springtime will be exceptionally joyful in Egypt.
During the next three months, Egyptians will be celebrating three different
religious holidays as well as a national holiday. The Prophet Mohamed’s
Birthday (peace be upon him), Passover, Easter, and the Ancient “Smell
of the Fresh Breeze” festivities have influenced both Egyptian
culture and cuisine a great deal.
The Prophet Mohamed’s birthday (peace be upon him) will be celebrated
this year on March 31. The date for the holiday changes every year because
Islamic holidays are based on the Hijri calendar. The occasion is celebrated
with a Moulid. Moulids are uniquely Egyptian religious festivals named after
revered religious leaders. Rabbis, scholars, sheiks, and saints have all had
Egyptian moulids held in their honor. Singing, dancing, music, prayer, children’s
games, puppet shows, and carnival type foods are all a part of the moulid atmosphere.
In addition to the numerous Muslim moulids held in Egypt, there is also a Christian
Virgin Mary moulid, and the Jewish moulid of Abu Hasira.
The Moulid An Nabi, or Prophet Mohamed’s birthday (may peace be upon
him), is the most important Muslim moulid. The largest Moulid an Nabi celebration
in Egypt takes place in the square adjacent to the El Hussein mosque. Sufi
music (the music of a mystical Islamic sect), parades, worship, and lectures
take place at this moulid. Streets are adorned with lights and amusement park
rides are set up for children. There are two special sweets called hellawayat
al moulid made out of molded melted sugar which is formed into toy dolls and
soldiers. The doll is called “the bride of the moulid” and the
other one is a toy soldier riding a horse.
This year, Egyptian Jews will celebrate Passover during the first week in April.
Many people are surprised to learn that the Jewish population flourished in
Egypt during the 12th century. The Fatimid government paid the salary for the
head of the Jewish community and even funded some of its projects. Approximately
80,000 Jews inhabited the old quarter next to the Al Azhar mosque in Islamic
Cairo. Cairo’s original Jewish community lived in Old Cairo near the
Ben Ezra Synagogue which was built on the site where baby Moses was found on
the banks of the Nile.
Jewish Egyptians prepare a special dish called Mayeena, which is an Egyptian
version of a matzo casserole. Apricot desserts were also traditionally significant
because they bloomed during the Passover season.
Most Egyptian Christians are known as Coptic Christians. In 395 AD, the Roman
Empire became officially divided into Eastern and Western portions. Egypt became
part of the Eastern portion and they began following the Eastern Orthodox religion.
Today Christians make up 9 percent of the Egyptian population. Easter is the
most important holiday on the Egyptian Coptic calendar. It is preceded by 55
days of fasting in which no meat, dairy products, fish and sugars are usually
consumed. While adapting to the dietary restrictions of the Lenten period,
Egyptian Christians came up with the recipe for falafel, known as t’amaya
in Egypt. Today t’amaya are an important breakfast and snack food for
all Egyptians.
During Easter holiday ceremonies, the Coptic Christians prepare a special bread
called Qurban bread which is decorated with a cross in the middle and is unleavened
in the Jewish tradition. Fish, meats, dairy products, and sugar are also important
features on the Egyptian Easter table, since they are abstained from during
Lent. The “El Moullaqa,” or “Hanging Church” plays
an integral role in Egyptian Coptic history, and also hosts Easter ceremonies
each year. According to Jailan Abbas, author Festivals of Egypt, Easter was
once celebrated by both Christians and Muslims during Fatimid and Ottoman rule
in Egypt. In the 16th century, the Sultan ordered his palace to distribute
tens of thousands of colored eggs, sweets, and fruit to the Christian priests
for Easter.
Since ancient times, colored eggs were seen as a symbol of new life in Egypt. “The
Smell of the Fresh Breeze” festival, or Sham an Nassim, began during
ancient times and used to be held in the middle of the Coptic Lenten period.
Under Fatimid rule, the date was changed so that everyone could participate
in the festivities. This year it will be held on April 30. Since the holiday
has no religious connotations, Egyptians of all faiths celebrate with picnics,
outings and family gatherings. Fresh sardines, hard-boiled colored eggs, onions,
green chick peas and other Springtime recipes are enjoyed.
Celebrate Springtime with the following Egyptian menu. The combination of fresh,
piquant flavors are reason enough to celebrate! Note that the recipes are simple
to prepare and perfectly portable for picnics. As we say in Egypt, bil hanna
wi shefa, with pleasure and health! |
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Egypt’s
Nile Festival
 Egyptians love to
celebrate. Festivals were celebrated in antiquity, as they are today, to
celebrate the seasons and for religious reasons. The biggest
festival of all was dedicated to the Nile. Each year the Nile would begin
to rise in June and eventually flood by July 19. For this reason, July 19
is the New Year on the ancient Egyptian calendar. There were huge celebrations
honoring the rising of the river. To give thanks to what the Ancient Egyptians
referred to as a Nile god named Hapi, they would place a roll of papyrus
containing a prayer on the Nile. They would also make offerings of fruits,
vegetables, and flowers to show their appreciation for the Nile’s rising.
Dancing and singing would take place all night long, and people would drink
water from the Nile. The joyous occasion of the Nile’s rising in antiquity
meant that fields of crops would be able to be irrigated all year round,
and that the citizens of Egypt would have enough to eat.
During antiquity, Egyptian cuisine was already considered to be luxurious
for its time. Grain was used as currency in ancient Egypt. Its abundance
of grain is what inspired the Greeks and the Romans to eventually conquer
it. Egypt’s famous fuul medammes dish, features a variety of fava bean
which are known to be the world’s oldest agricultural crop. Date crops
have been religiously significant for more than 5,000 years in Egypt. Figs
were growing 3,500 years ago and have always been an important part of the
Egyptian diet.
Jars found in tombs dating back to the First Dynasty (3200-2700 BC) revealed
ancient forms of cheese. Papyri from 2,800 BC described extensive spice usage.
Old Kingdom (2700-2600) tomb scenes depict bread being shaped and produced
in mass quantities. Ramses II’s tomb revealed pictures of elegant pastries,
cakes, and pies being made in bakeries which catered specifically to royalty.
Sweets were also prepared in communal ovens and sweetened with honey and
molasses, instead of sugar, which was extremely expensive at the time because
it was just introduced by the Persians.
Pyramid laborers were given rations
of five pounds of bread, per person, daily, The ancient Egyptians became
so fond of bread that the Greeks referred to them as “the bread eaters.” Bread
is still an important staple in the Egyptian diet today. People go and buy
their bread fresh from bakeries each day. The most common forms of bread
are aish baladi, which actually means local life, and is a whole wheat flour,
white flour, and bran pita unique to Egypt. There is also aish shammi, or
a white bread pita styled after that in the Levantine region, and aish fino,
which is like a short, soft-baguette similar to a thin sub roll or short
baguette. The agricultural museum in Cairo shows thousands of types of bread
that have been eaten in Egypt over the years.
Fruits and vegetables grew abundantly in the Nile Valley during ancient times,
thanks to the rising of the Nile. Peas, beans, cucumbers, leeks, figs, dates,
and pomegranates all flourished. The ancient Egyptians ate a wide variety of
meats, poultry, and fish. Ancient Egyptians used food to nourish their minds,
bodies, and spirits. Many of the foods used by ancient Egyptians are now popular
not only in modern day Egypt, but in the entire world. They extracted essential
oils from floral and food sources to make incense, perfume, ointments, and cosmetics
as well.
The ancient festival traditions enjoyed a resurgence in popularity during 10th
century when a North African Muslim dynasty known as the Fatimids declared Cairo
as their capitol. During their reign, they reinstated many of the ancient festivals
which were forgotten, introduced the Egyptian moulid festivals, and even encouraged
cross-religious celebrations. The moulid festivals which they started still take
place in Egypt today. The moulids are religious festivals which are celebrated
to honor special religious figures. “Moulid” means birth, so the
moulids are held on the birthdays of the person who is being honored. There are
Jewish, Christian, and Muslim moulids held in Egypt today. I was in Cairo for
the Moulid of the Prophet Mohamed (peace be upon him) on March 31st of this year.
The festival usually lasts from dusk until dawn and thousands of families sit
around the perimeter of the mosques to listen to the chanting of sufi mystics
who come from all over Egypt to participate in the festival. . A typical moulid
drink is a rose flavored punch. People prepare it in large quantities and hand
it out for free. It’s very sweet and floral…it even tastes pink.
It always reminds me of the mystical quality that the moulid atmosphere has.
Use these recipes when you want to add festival flair to your table. |
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Ramadan
2007
This year, Muslim Egyptians will start celebrating Ramadan
on September 13th. During the holy month of Ramadan, Muslims abstain
from food and drink from sun up to sundown to fulfill religious obligations
and learn self restraint, patience, and piety. People who are ill, traveling,
children, and non-Muslims are not required to fast. The month of Ramadan
is considered to be holy by Muslims because it is the lunar month in
which
the Torah, Bible, and Qu’ran were revealed. Since the Islamic calendar
is lunar, the date of Ramadan changes each year.
At the start of the sun setting, cannons are fired throughout Egypt announcing
the end of the day’s fast. Then the minarets start calling Muslims to
the sunset prayer. The decorative street lights and lanterns are illuminated
in urban
and rural areas alike. People stand at traffic lights carrying little bags
of dates and sometimes whole boxed meals to toss into the cars of the people
who
are unfortunate enough to not be at home enjoying meals with their families.
After the break-fast meal, people go out into the streets to walk, window shop,
attend supplemental prayers called Tawareah, at mosques, and socialize.
In Cairo, the area around the Hussein and Al Azhar mosques becomes a beacon of
human activity. The bazaar in the Attaba neighborhood is packed with wall-to
wall bargain hunters looking for deals for presents which are to be exchanged
on the Eid al Fitr, the three day holiday marking the end of Ramadan. All along
the Nile, boats light up as many people reserve places on cruises to break their
fasts in style.
In Alexandria, the European style café’s that line the Mediterranean
shore are decked out in white lights. The old Arab quarter and the Abul Abbas
El-Morsi Mosque echo an atmosphere reminiscent of Sufi mystics and reigning
sultans. Restaurants in popular quarters add to the communal atmosphere of
the month by
extending their restaurants outside with sidewalk service found only in Ramadan.
Our friends in Luxor tell us that the streets have actually been blocked off
to hold Ramadan dinners. Whoever would normally have been traveling stops at
the road block and participates in the festivities – creating an open
air party for locals and travelers alike.
Here are three significant Egyptian Ramadan recipes taken from Nile Style: Egyptian
Cuisine and Culture by Amy Riolo (Capital Books, 2007). For more information,
visit www.amyriolo.com. |
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• Chickpea and Tomato Salad With Tahina Dressing
• Circassian Chicken
• Apricot Pudding
• Hibiscus Punch
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Chickpea and Tomato Salad With Tahina Dressing/Salatat Hommos wa Tomatum
Ingredients:
2 cups canned chickpeas, rinsed, drained and peeled*
1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes
1⁄4 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons tahina**
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Serves 4
Preparation:
Combine chickpeas, tomatoes and parsley on a medium serving platter.
Pour lemon juice into a small glass jar with a lid.
Add tahina, salt, and pepper to the jar. Cover and shake vigorously to
mix well.
Pour dressing over salad and mix well to combine.
Serve at room temperature.
Note: To make this salad ahead of time, simply keep the dressing and
the salad separate and refrigerate one day ahead. Before serving, pour
dressing over salad
and mix well.
• Peel chickpeas by placing them between the thumb and index finger. Squeeze
the chickpea through and remove the skin.*
• Tahina is sesame paste which may be purchased in the international section
in most supermarkets.**
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Circassian Chicken/ Sharkasiya
Circassian Chicken is one of the great dishes that Egypt inherited from
its Ottoman Turkish rule. In the olden days, it had a reputation for
being a sophisticated and elegant entertaining dish. Many of the Egyptian
women who learned to make it were of Turkish ancestry. Inviting someone
to your home to eat Sharkasiya let them know that you were not only of
Turkish, but aristocratic origins as well.
If you’ve never tried Circassian Chicken before, think of it
as a more nutritious and flavorful version of chicken salad. It can
be served
at room temperature with pita bread and lettuce leaves. The recipe is
traditionally prepared with a whole chicken. However, I substituted
chicken breasts in
this recipe for speed.
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
3 boneless chicken breasts
5 cups chicken broth, divided
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 carrot, peeled and halved
1 1⁄2 cups ground walnuts
1 garlic clove
1⁄2 cup milk
Topping:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon paprika
3 walnut halves, for decoration
Preparation:
Place chicken breasts, 4 cups of the broth, salt, pepper, and carrot into a large
pot.
Bring to a boil over medium high heat, uncovered.
Skim the scum off the top as it forms.
Reduce the heat to medium low.
Simmer, uncovered for 45 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through.
Place 1 cup of remaining broth, bread, walnuts, garlic, and milk in the blender
and puree to form a smooth paste.
Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary.
When chicken is finished cooking, drain, and let cool slightly.
When it is cool enough to handle, shred chicken into bite size pieces with your
fingers.
Place on a serving platter and top with bread and walnut paste.
Pour olive oil into a small bowl and whisk in paprika.
Drizzle dressing on top of chicken and top with walnut halves for decoration.
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Apricot Pudding/Mahallibayat Amr al-Din
Apricots were traditionally a part of Passover celebrations in Egypt
because they bloomed in March. This is also a popular Ramadan dessert.
The English
and European terms for the apricot come from Islamic Spain where apricots were
referred to as “al burquq,” or “the precocious”, because
they bloomed so early.
Serves 8 to 10
Ingredients:
1 pound dried apricots
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons potato starch dissolved in 1⁄4 cup water
Handful of blanched almonds and raisins, to decorate
Preparation:
Chop apricots into small pieces.
Place them in a large bowl and cover them with 4 cups of boiling water.
When the apricot pieces dissolve, add sugar and stir.
Puree the mixture in a blender.
Pour the apricot juice into a medium saucepan. Add the cornstarch mixture and
stir.
Increase heat to high and boil for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
Reduce heat to medium low and continue cooking and stirring for 5 more minutes.
Pudding is finished when it thickens and pulls away from the sides of the saucepan.
Pour into individual serving dishes or a large, shallow bowl.
Sprinkle raisins and nuts on top and refrigerate until set (around 2 hours or
overnight).
Serve cold.
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Hibiscus Punch/Karkade
In Egypt, dried hibiscus leaves are used to make
this delicious drink. It contains a high amount of vitamin C, is said to
act as a purifying tonic for the body, and is known to lower blood pressure
when consumed in large quantities. During the winter, karkade can be enjoyed
hot as a tea. In warmer weather, it can be served chilled. I freeze it
in ice cube trays and popsicle molds. Kids love the popsicles and sweet
red ice makes even plain water seem festive.
Makes approximately 1 gallon
Ingredients:
1 cup dried hibiscus leaves*
1⁄2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon orange blossom water*
Preparation:
Fill a large pot with a gallon of water. Add the hibiscus leaves and bring to
a boil.
Allow to boil for 5 minutes and remove from heat.
Strain the juice through a colander into a heat-resistant pitcher.
Add sugar and orange blossom water to liquid and stir.
Refrigerate until cold, if desired.
•
Hibiscus is sometimes sold as Roselle leaves. Look for them in Egyptian and Carribean
supermarkets and health food stores. *
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Orange blossom water can be found at specialty supermarkets and Middle Eastern
markets. **
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• Classic Hommus/Hommus bil Tahina
• Cheese and Spinach Turnovers/ Sambousik bil Gebna wa Sabanikh
• Mini Chicken Pita Sandwiches/Shwarma Soghair
• Mixed Salad/Salata Baladi
• Sweet Fritters Topped With Syrup/Lomut al Adi
• Rose Cooler/Assir Ward
• Black Tea With Mint/Shai bil Nana
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Classic Hommus/Hommus
bil Tahina
Hommus bil Tahina
is probably the most recognized Middle Eastern dish in the world. Ancient
Egyptian methods of preparing the dish involved mashing
cooked chick peas with mortars and pestles. The advent of food processors
has turned this ancient dish into a modern one. Interestingly, the word
hommus, means “chickpeas” in Arabic. The real name for this dish is Hommus
bil Tahina, or “chickpeas with sesame paste” in English.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, peeled*
1 garlic clove, minced
1/3 cup tahini (sesame puree)
1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus two teaspoons for garnish
Salt, to taste
Dash of cayenne pepper, to taste
Dash of paprika, for garnish
Preparation:
Place chickpeas in a food processor, reserving a few for garnish.
Add all of the rest of the ingredients, except the paprika to the food processor.
Puree until smooth.
Add water, tablespoon by tablespoon, to get an extra creamy consistency
(you should need less than 1⁄4 cup in total)
Scrape down the sides of the food processor, and puree for 1 to 2 additional
minutes.
Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.
If not serving immediately, store in a container with a lid in the refrigerator.
Otherwise, spoon onto a small round dish.
Using the back of a spoon, make dents in the top and fill the dents with
remaining olive oil.
Sprinkle paprika and arrange remaining chickpeas on the top. Serve with warm
pita.
Tip: To peel chickpeas, hold them in between your thumb and index finger
over a bowl and squeeze. The chickpea will come through and you will
be left with the skin in your hand. I like to peel them while I’m
watching television or talking on the phone, and leave them ready in
the refrigerator,
so that I can make this dish in minutes whenever I want it.
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Cheese and Spinach
Turnovers/ Sambousik bil Gebna wa Sabanikh
Sambousik are flaky pastries combined with a wide variety of fillings. Usually
three separate types, meat, cheese, and spinach are served for special occasions.
This recipe combines cheese and spinach in the filling. If you have a Middle
Eastern market, it is worth looking for good quality feta cheese. Fresh feta
has a soft, smooth, and creamy consistency quite different from the variety
sold in supermarkets. The sambousik
may be made ahead of time, frozen, and defrosted a few hours before serving.
Once reheated, they will taste fresh again.
Makes 15 Triangles
Ingredients:
1⁄2 cup good quality feta cheese, crumbled and whipped to a smooth consistency
1⁄2 cup frozen spinach, thawed
1 medium onion, grated
Salt
Freshly grated pepper
Dash of paprika
1/3 cup clarified butter (ghee)
9 phyllo pastry sheets, thawed according to package directions
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 350F degrees.
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.
Make filling by combining feta cheese, spinach, and onion together
in a medium bowl.
Season with a few dashes of salt and pepper. Stir well and set aside.
Open the phyllo sheets and spread them out onto a work surface in a rectangular
position.
Layer three sheets on top of each other, brushing the top one with clarified
butter to cover.
Cut 5 equal strips (from top to bottom) going down the length of the rectangle.
Place one teaspoon of cheese mixture at the top of each strip.
Fold the phyllo over the filling on the diagonal.
Continue to fold the phyllo in a flag-folding fashion into a triangle (the
way you would make a paper football).
Continue with remaining phyllo and filling.
Brush clarified butter over the tops of each triangle and spread with clarified
butter.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Tip: Clarify butter by melting it and removing the white solids from the
top
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Mini Chicken Pita Sandwiches/Shwarma Soghair
Shwarma is the rotisserie cooked meat that is “shaved” and
piled high in sandwiches all over the Middle East. Traditionally, the meat
is threaded with layers of fat, topped with tomatoes and/or peppers, and
left to cook slowly for hours. Needless to say the meat is tender, succulent,
and full of flavor. This recipe enables you to enjoy this popular street
food at home, saving time and calories. Remember to marinate the chicken
for 24 hours before proceeding with the recipe.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
2 pounds skinless boneless chicken breast (sliced into long 1⁄2 inch pieces)
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Dash of chili powder
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
1/8 cup white vinegar
1⁄4 cup corn oil
5 garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
Tahini Sauce:
1⁄4 cup tahini
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Dash of chili powder
To serve:
1 package mini or regular pita bread, or regular
Hot sauce, if desired, for topping
Assorted pickles or preserved lemons
Preparation:
Combine chicken slices, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, chili
powder, nutmeg, cinnamon, sweet paprika, lemon juice and zest, white vinegar,
corn oil, garlic cloves, and onion in a large shallow bowl or dish.
Stir to mix well and coat chicken. Cover with aluminum foil and place in refrigerator
for 24 hours.
Make the tahini sauce by combining the tahini and lemon juice together in a medium
bowl, mixing well.
Add enough water to thin the sauce out to a syrupy consistency. Stir in chili
powder.
Taste, and add salt and pepper if necessary. Cover and store in refrigerator
until needed.
After chicken has marinated for 24 hours, preheat oven to 425F degrees.
Remove chicken from refrigerator and drain well. Spread chicken in a single layer
on a baking sheet.
Bake in the lower section of the oven for 25 minutes, turning once. Taste chicken
and adjust seasonings if necessary.
Warm pitas for 1 to 2 minutes in the hot oven.
Remove from oven and top with chicken meat. Fold in half and serve like a taco.
Serve on a platter with small bowls of hot sauce, tahini sauce, and pickles.
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Mixed Salad/Salata Baladi
This is the most commonly served salad in Egypt. The types of vegetables
used in making it vary depending on the time of year and availability.
Be sure to dice the vegetables finely in order to achieve the proper texture.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
3 radishes, diced
1 cucumber, diced
1 carrot, shredded
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 green pepper, diced
1 large tomato, diced
1⁄4 cup olive or corn oil
3 limes, zested and juiced
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Dash of cumin
Dash of chili powder
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar, if needed
Preparation:
Place radishes, cucumber, carrot, parsley, green pepper, and tomato in a large
bowl.
Whisk olive oil, lime zest, lime juice, salt, pepper, cumin, and chili powder
together in a medium bowl.
Taste dressing and add sugar, if needed. Pour dressing over salad and toss to
combine.
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Sweet Fritters Topped With Syrup/Lomut al Adi
The name of this dessert, Lomut al Adi, means “judge’s mouthfuls” in
Arabic.
They are a spin-off of the “zalabya” doughnuts which officials
from the Fatimid Muslim palaces used to distribute to the Christian community
at Christmas time. The tradition was so well loved that the making of these
fritters caught on in Fatimid ruled areas all across the Mediterranean.
Nowadays no Southern Italian street festival would be complete without “zeppole”,
nor would Greek festivals forget to incorporate “loukamadis”.
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients:
For the Syrup:
3⁄4 cup sugar
1 lemon, juiced
For the Sweet Fritters:
1 1/8 teaspoons active dry yeast mixed with a teaspoon of sugar
2 1⁄4 cups unbleached, all purpose, white flour
1 tablespoon rice flour
1 large egg, beaten
1 tablespoon clarified butter (ghee)
4 cups corn oil, for frying
Preparation:
Make the syrup by placing 1 cup water, sugar, and lemon juice in a large saucepan.
Stir and bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium heat.
Once syrup begins to boil, reduce heat to low, discontinue stirring, and allow
syrup to simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
Make the sweet mouthfuls by dissolving yeast and sugar mixture in 1⁄4 lukewarm
water in a small bowl.
Allow to rest 15 minutes, or until bubbly and doubled in volume (this is called
proofing the yeast).
In a large bowl, combine flour, rice flour, proofed yeast mixture, egg, and clarified
butter with 1 3⁄4 cup water.
Mix well to combine, then whisk to remove lumps. Mixture should resemble a pancake
batter.
If batter seems too thick, add more water, tablespoon by tablespoon, until it
is smooth.
If batter seems too thin, add more flour, tablespoon by tablespoon, until it
is smooth.
Cover with a clean kitchen cloth, and then wrap entire bowl in a clean towel.
Set in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until batter is bubbly and has
doubled in volume.
When batter is ready, heat 4 cups of oil in a large saucepan.
Use two teaspoons to shape mouthfuls by grabbing the dough with one teaspoon
and pushing it off with another.
When oil reaches 350 to 365F degrees, carefully drop the small balls into the
hot oil (you may choose to wear oven mitts while doing this). Fry 2 to 3 minutes
per side, until golden brown.
Remove with a slotted spoon onto a platter lined with paper towels.
Carefully place mouthfuls into syrup, and turn gently to coat and remove onto
a serving platter.
Repeat until all batter is used. Serve warm with Arabic coffee.
Tip: Make the syrup up to 1 month in advance and store in an airtight container
in the refrigerator.
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Rose Cooler/Assir Ward
This is a delicious and refreshing rose infused drink. Its color, taste,
and floral content make it perfect for a romantic occasion. Be sure to
use organic, untreated rose petals to garnish the drink. They can be purchased
at most organic supermarkets and florists. Serve in small, clear, punch
or cocktail glasses.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
2 cups water, chilled
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons lemon juice
10 drops red food coloring
1⁄2 cup rose water
Organic rose petals, to garnish
Preparation:
Combine water, sugar, lemon juice, food coloring, and rose water in a pitcher.
Stir well to incorporate all ingredients.
Taste and adjust sugar, if necessary.
Pour into a clear pitcher, or glasses, and garnish with organic rose petals.
Serve chilled.
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Black Tea With Mint/Shai bil Nana
Tea is not only a drink in Egypt, it’s a national past time. Tea is
enjoyed morning, noon, or night. Egyptians prefer special blends of Ceylon
teas which are renown for their golden hue and strong flavor. The exact ingredients
in each blend are kept a secret. They are known to be the highest quality,
and can be enjoyed anytime of day. For breakfast, glasses of half black tea
and half warm milk are served. Remember to ask your guests weather they would
like one, two, or three teaspoons of sugar, and add it to the hot tea before
serving. Black tea is usually served in short clear glasses in restaurants
and coffee shops or fine porcelain in homes.
Makes 4 cups
Ingredients:
4 teaspoons high quality black tea, loose leaf
4 cups boiling water
Sugar, if desired
4 mint sprigs
Preparation:
Place tea in boiling water, and add sugar.
Cover, and allow to steep for 10 minutes for strong tea, or 5 minutes for regular
strength.
Stir in sugar, if desired.
Place mint sprigs into glasses.
Strain tea and pour over mint in glasses.
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• Macerated Dates, Apricots, and Raisins/Khoshaf
• Homemade Apricot Juice/Assir Amr Din
• Sweet Nut Filled Pancakes/Atayef |
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Macerated Dates, Apricots, and Raisins/Khoshaf
Macerated dates are enjoyed in many Muslim countries during the month of
Ramadan because the prophet Mohamed (peace be upon him) used to break
his fast with dates. Traditionally, Muslims are to break their fast with
dates, pray the sunset prayer, and then enjoy the iftaar meal. As a result,
dates have become a symbolic Ramadan tradition.
In 7th century Arabia they were used for everything from settling debts
to charity to entertaining. While the original Khoshaf contained only
water and dates, modern
cooks combine various kinds of dried fruits, sugar, nuts and coconut in their
drinks. Since the dates get soaked in water for a long period of time, it’s
best to use the hardest dates you can find for this recipe. Soft ones will
disintegrate. Serve Khoshaf in small ramekins which are set above dinner plates.
4 Servings
Ingredients:
1 pound firm dried dates, pitted
1⁄2 pound raisins
1⁄2 pound dried apricots, chopped into small pieces
1⁄4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
1 teaspoon rose water
Preparation:
Place dates, raisins, and apricots in a large bowl. Pour 4 cups of
boiling water on top of them. Stir in sugar, orange blossom water,
and rose water. Let stand
until water reaches room temperature and fruit becomes tender. Serve in small
ramekins or mugs with a spoon.
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Homemade Apricot Juice/Assir Amr Din
During Ramadan, Egyptian restaurant tables (which have been reserved in
advance) are set with small plates of appetizers, dates, and apricot juice.
The patrons
can sit down and start their meal before ordering. Since charity is an important
pillar of Islam, many famous Egyptians sponsor large, free communal meals throughout
the cities and villages.
During Ramadan, large colored cloths are draped over store fronts, in windows,
and used as decorative tents. Special Ramadan lanterns called fanoos are used
as typical decorations in homes and businesses. Some people also miniature table
top mosques and fill them with Nubian style figurines of people praying, reading
Qu’ran, preparing food, and performing other tasks of daily life.
The Arabic term for dried apricot, qamr din, literally translates as “moon
of faith.” In Egypt, dried fruits are traditionally reserved especially
for Ramadan when large lines form outside of stores specializing in dried fruits
and nuts.
6 Servings
Ingredients:
1 pound dried apricots, chopped into small pieces
1 cup sugar
Preparation:
Chop apricots into small pieces. Place them in a large, heat proof bowl
and cover them with 6 cups boiling water. When the apricot pieces dissolve,
stir in sugar
until it dissolves. Puree the mixture in a blender. Refrigerate until cold.
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Sweet Nut Filled Pancakes/Atayef
Atayef are synonymous with Ramadan in Egypt. I remember last year, at
4:10AM on the first day of Ramadan, the first call to prayer sounded. Various
mosques around town continued their chorus of prayer calls until 4:40 AM
when silence once again befell on a country which seemed to never sleep.
Five minutes later two foldable tables were set up on the sidewalk of the
empty street in front of our apartment. Using lanterns as their guides,
two men and a woman began preparing batter that would be transformed into
Atayef once the day started. The Atayef makers decorated their downstairs
apartment with red, white, and green lights in a U-shaped formation to
call attention to their sweets.
Some pastry shops use red, green, and yellow food coloring to dye the batter
making the pancakes. The batter, filling, and syrup, may all be made the day
before serving and stored seperatley in the refrigerator. On the day of serving
the pancakes will just need to be made, filled, fried, and topped.
Makes 14
Ingredients:
For batter:
1 1⁄2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 1⁄2 teaspoons sugar
2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
Canola oil, for frying
For Syrup:
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
3 strips lemon zest
1⁄2 teaspoon orange blossom water
1⁄2 teaspoon rose water
For filling:
1⁄4 cup blanched almonds, ground
1⁄4 cup walnuts, ground
Preparation:
Mix yeast with sugar and 1⁄4 cup of warm water. Stir until dissolved. Sift
flour and salt into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center. Pour in yeast
mixture and 1 1⁄4 cup warm water. Whisk mixture until a smooth batter is
formed. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and kitchen towels and place in a warm,
draft-free area. Allow to rise for 1 hour. Batter is ready when it is bubbly.
In the meantime, prepare the syrup. Combine 3⁄4 cup water with sugar, lemon
juice, and zest in a medium saucepan. Stir and cook over medium high heat, dissolving
sugar and stirring often. Bring mixture to a boil, stop stirring, and lower heat
to medium low. Allow mixture to cook for 10 minutes. Take off of heat and set
aside to cool.
When batter is ready, heat 2 tablespoons of canola oil in a large frying
pan. Using a batter dispenser or a tablespoon, carefully pour 1 tablespoon
of batter
into the oil forming a 4-inch circle-shaped pancake (Egyptians use forerunner
of the modern batter dispenser to do this). Continue with remaining batter,
do not crowd pan. When top of pancakes are full of holes, remove them with
a spatula
and place on a paper towel lined tray, cooked side down. When all of batter
has been used, begin to fill the pancakes.
Mix ground almonds and walnuts together. Holding a pancake in the palm of
your left hand, fill it with1 teaspoon of the nut mixture on the uncooked
side of
the pancake. Gently press the very tip of the pancake to seal it in the form
of a half moon. (Be careful not to make a thick ridge like ravioli or it
will cause atayef to fry unevenly). Place pancakes on a plate. Continue filling
and sealing the remaining pancakes.
Heat 2-inches of oil in a large frying pan. When oil is hot, fry the pancakes
for 2 minutes per side, or until golden. Remove pancakes and place onto a
platter lined with paper towels. While still warm, place on a serving platter
and pour
syrup over the top. Allow to cool enough to handle and serve warm.
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